Digital Dash Repair

By:  Gvillepoet

due to popular demand, many first time impala owners and even veteran owners still want to know how to fix the "fading odometer" all to well known in these 96 impalas. i took apart my cluster panel to show others how to fix the "Fading Odometer". I did a write up some years back because other write ups didnt seem clear to me nor did the impala superstore directions when many of us ordered the relocation resistor. so remember this is just how I did it, i'm sure others did it differently. also again mine is already fixed so i cant really show the old resistors. this was my first soldering job also. WARNING: the resistor gets super hot QUICK. thats why they went bad in the first place most likely. I relocated mine away from the circuit board. I'm sure others have placed it someplace else, mine has been working fine for 5 or 6 years now.

tools needed: 7mm socket and rachet adapter or straight handle adapter, radio shack $20 soldering gun, small 6-point star screw driver, relocation resistor most of us get from the, and most of all patience.


Resistor information from Allan Saltman:

I saw someone posted what's imprinted on the casing "ARCOL

04 48 HS10 33R F"  I think its a 10watt, 33 Ohm - but will wait for a

friend to tell me. It's about a $2-$5 part, plus addt'l heatsink & wires.

so here's the info from the mfg:


"Thank you for your email, the `R` denotes the decimal point for the ohmic value, so in this case 33R (ohms) `F` denotes 1% tolerance"


So, it IS a 33 Ohm 10 watt wire wound resistor.  You can buy the Arcol brand at (for ~$2.30 + addt'l heatsink for about 25˘ - though I don't know why the "kit" has one). I bought a similar setup from a local "shop" for $3.


I just wanted to help you out & share the info.


Have a great week,



two 7mm screws, take them out

notice 4 more 7mm screws holding the entire cluster housing in place, cant get this out so lets take the plastic trim loose.

notice my relocation resistor located away from the circuit board, i mounted mine with the stock screw that holds the housing in place.

3 screws on the bottom

one screw on the side behind the fuse panel

fragile part, this is in very tight, but gently and firmly tug, (dont hold me responsible if you crack your stuff)

notice we have more room now to pull the cluster housing out, there are 2 fixed harnesses this housing plugs into, just pull straight out.

still had to flip it to work it out of there

total of (11) small 6-point star screws




after taking this plastic cover off, you cans ee the circuitry, and this is how i fished the 2 wires up through the board and through the small hole and solder the wires into place. BE CAREFUL not to get solder connecting into the other circuit paths(the copper color lines on the board). if you do this you are basically connecting the paths, and may mess up something. i would suggest solding on some cardboard for practice if this is your first time.

then replace of course in reverse order.

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