OK .. I JUST finished doing this
a few hours ago and took some pics
while I did it. I made a tool to allow the install of the seal onto
the Water Pump drive shaft and keep the "lip" inward. It seemed to
work beautifully and was MUCH smoother then the socket method that I
posted a while back.
I need to take pics of the tool and post the dimensions and the "how
to", to make it. I will follow up in this thread.
The pictures start at removing the opti, but I took two pics of the
process of removing the WP drive shaft seal, after I had the new one
in (notice the yellow O-ring). The process of removing the WP is
pretty straight forward, a few tips if you are cheap like me (and want
to reuse the coolant) : Remove the lower heater hose from the WP and
put a funnel under it, drain the coolant into a plastic 4 inch deep
pan thats about 20 x 16 or so. After that stops, then remove the
drivers side lowest WP bolt and that will drain the block - again use
a funnel to direct the coolant into the pan. Remove the pan from
under the car and put something over it so your neighborhood animals
dont stop by for a drink.
Removing the Water Pump seal requires a small blade screw driver and
Here is that Opti everyone hates - I don't I LOVE it.
Here is the WP seal removed
And a closeup:
Remove the three bolts, 4 drivers side spark plug wires, the main
opti plug, the pulley (three bolts and it can be pulled off by hand)
and the opti can be swung out of the way. There is the opti seal.
Here is where the o-rings go on
the opti, the "old" ones (25k) were
hard as a rock. You can see them in the picture above. They were
also flattened. I cut them off carefully with an exacto knife (sharp
edge AWAY from shaft):
Use a seal puller to hook the inside edge of the seal, I got this
at Harbor Freight for chump change, its already removed the pinion
seal and my wifes 1995 Camaro Z28's front seal - nice tool!
Here is the seal removed:
A close up:
To install the new seal, I just lined up the seal, and CAREFULLY
tapped around the outside edge until the seal "grabbed" the hole
and then pounded the seal into the cover by hitting around and
around the metal edge. New seal installed:
Now the FUN part. The dreaded Water Pump seal!! Dont fret! I
have the tool I made. Slide the seal onto the tool, with a light
film of engine oil and then line up the tool with the shaft.
Tool lined up:
And we are OFF!! Next couple show it going on (exciting huh?):
Tool removed from the shaft edge, seal is on the shaft:
Now to hammer the seal
into the timing cover, I used a 15/16 socket
from a 1/2 drive set. In case you are wondering - YES I CAN levitate!
New seal in timing cover:
Better views of the socket:
Where the WP drive O-ring goes!
Put the opti back on, torque bolts to 100 inch pounds.
Back of the water pump:
Close up of where the OTHER O-ring goes!
I put the gaskets on in this proceedure : Use Permetex no2 "Form-
A-Gasket" on the water pump, light coat, then put the gasket on
the WP, then put another light coat of Permatex no2 on the gasket.
Now you can carefully negotiate the WP onto the dowel pins and
not have to worry about the gaskets. You might have to rotate
the shaft of the water pump just a tad to get it to line up with
the WP drive shaft on the engine (dont forget the union tube!)
All back together ... I hope its not leaking anymore!!